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Thai Green Mango Salad (Som Tum Mamuang)

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:50:01 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

A street food favorite in the night markets of Thailand, this Thai green mango salad recipe, known as som tum mamuang, is a refreshing adaptation of a more widely known version made with papaya. Usually served as an appetizer, this spicy-sweet salad makes splendid use of crunchy and tart unripe mangoes.

A fruit shredder can make quick work of slicing the mangoes. A mortar and pestle is also key for extracting flavor and fragrance from the aromatics and fruit (and is a worthwhile investment for all kinds of cooking). When making this dish, cooks in Thailand traditionally use a larger mortar than what is typically found in the U.S.

This recipe originally ran in our June/July 2010 print issue with the story “Everything Is Illuminated,” by James Oseland.

Yield: 2

Time: 25 minutes

2 Tbsp. small dried shrimp
8 red bird’s eye chiles, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ medium shallot, finely chopped
3 small, green unripe mangoes (about 1½ lbs.), peeled and cut into thin matchsticks
18 green beans, trimmed and cut into 2-in. lengths
14 grape tomatoes, halved
3 Tbsp. fish sauce
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. palm sugar or brown sugar
2 Tbsp. roasted unsalted peanuts, coarsely chopped

Instructions

In a large mortar and pestle, pound the shrimp until coarsely ground; transfer to a small bowl and set aside. To the mortar, add the chiles, garlic, and shallot and pound until bruised. Working in batches, add the mangoes and pound, using a spoon to scrape the sides and combine well after each batch, until the fruit is softened slightly and fully coated in the aromatics. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and set aside.
To the mortar, add the green beans and tomatoes and lightly pound to extract their juices. Stir in the fish sauce, lime juice, and sugar, then transfer to the bowl with the mango mixture and toss well. Transfer to a serving bowl or platter, garnish with the crushed dried shrimp and peanuts, and serve at room temperature.

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Atol de Elote

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:45:26 +0000

Photography by Linda Xiao; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Atol de elote is a sweet corn beverage frequently doled out warm in Guatemalan markets. Seasoned with cinnamon or vanilla, fresh corn kernels are pulverized on a grinding stone or metate to achieve the drink’s silky, creamy consistency. (In a pinch, a blender gets the job done, too.)

This recipe ran alongside Chris Bagley‘s 2017 story, “Guatemala’s Ancient Food Traditions.“

Yield: 6–8

Time: 40 minutes

3 fresh corn cobs, shucked (about 1¾ lb.)
2 cups whole milk
¹⁄₂ cup raw turbinado sugar
¹⁄₄ tsp. ground cinnamon or vanilla extract, or more
¹⁄₂ tsp. kosher salt

Instructions

Using a large chefs knife, slice the kernels from the corn cobs, reserving the kernels (about 2 cups) and their juices (discard the cobs). Set a few kernels aside for garnish if desired.
Transfer the corn kernels to a blender and pulse until coarsely ground. Add 2 cups water, the milk, sugar, and cinnamon or vanilla, and blend on high until very smooth.
To a medium pot over medium-low heat, add the corn mixture, bring to a low boil, then stir in the salt. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the atol de elote is slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and ladle into heatproof cups or mugs. Garnish with any reserved corn kernels and a bit more cinnamon if desired.

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Strawberry Risotto

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:43:25 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

This unusual, pastel-pink strawberry risotto recipe is a great way to use up those out-of-season (or past-their-prime) berries kicking around your fruit drawer. The dish was a popular menu item at Italian restaurants in the 80s—and we’re all for its comeback.

Featured in “Can This Berry Be Saved?” by Warren Schultz.

Yield: 4

Time: 35 minutes

3 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade
1 cup strawberries, washed and hulled
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
1 cup arborio rice
¼ cup dry white wine
¾ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small pot, bring the stock to a boil, then add the berries and boil for 30 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a food processor or blender and purée; set aside. Turn off the heat.
To a large pot set over medium-low heat, add the butter. When it’s melted, add the rice and cook, stirring frequently, until lightly toasted, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and cook until absorbed, about 4 minutes. Add ½ cup of the reserved stock and cook until absorbed, then continue with the remaining stock. (The total cook time should be about 25 minutes.)
Remove from the heat and stir in the purée and Parmigiano, then season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve immediately.

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Croissants au Beurre

Chad Robertson — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:25:35 +0000

Emma Star Jensen

The croissant is the most celebrated member of the family of butter- and sugar-enriched, yeasted pastries known as viennoiseries. They obtain their signature flaky texture through lamination, the process of coating a dough with fat and repeatedly folding and rolling it to create layers. Tartine owner Chad Robertson insists on an unsalted, high-fat butter with at least 80 percent fat for laminating his straight-armed versions.

Recipe times may vary drastically depending on environmental factors, so be sure to mind the visual cues before moving on to the next step. If possible, use a scale to measure your ingredients and work in a cool room.

Featured in “How to Make the Best Ultra-Buttery Croissants,” by Kat Craddock.

Ingredients

For the Preferment:

³⁄₄ cup (200 g) 2% milk
¹⁄₂ tsp. (2 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ¹⁄₄ cups (175 g) bread flour

For the Dough:

2 tsp. (8 g) active dry yeast (not instant)
1 ³⁄₄ cups (425 g) 2% milk
5 ¹⁄₄ cups (800 g) bread flour, plus more as needed
¹⁄₃ cup (70 g) sugar
1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. (22 g) fine sea salt
1 tbsp. (12 g) unsalted butter, melted
5 sticks (585 g) high-fat unsalted butter (look for European-style brands like Plugra, President, or Kerrygold) at room temperature
3 large egg yolks
2 tbsp. heavy cream

Instructions

Make the preferment: In a small saucepan over low heat, warm the milk just enough to take the chill off. (The milk should not feel warm or cold to the touch, 80°–90°.)
Pour the milk into a large bowl, then sprinkle in the yeast and stir to dissolve. Add the flour and mix with a wooden spoon until a smooth batter forms. Cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel and let the mixture rise until almost doubled in volume, 2½–3 hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.
Make the dough: Transfer the preferment to the large bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Set the milk, flour, sugar, salt, and melted butter nearby. Add the yeast to the preferment and mix on low speed, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl and bring together the ingredients as needed, until the yeast is incorporated and the mixture is an even, well-mixed mass, about 2 minutes. Raise the speed to medium, and while mixing, slowly add half of the milk. Continue to mix until fully incorporated. Turn off the mixer, then add the flour, sugar, salt, melted butter, and the remaining half of the milk. Mix on low speed until a loose dough forms, about 2 minutes. Return the speed to medium and mix until the dough is smooth and cohesive, 2 minutes more. Remove the hook and cover the bowl with a clean, dry kitchen towel. Let rise in a cool place until the volume has increased by nearly half, about 1½ hours.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and form it into a rough rectangle about 2 inches thick. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled through, 3–4 hours.
One hour before laminating the dough, make your butter sheet. Place a large sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap on a work surface. Add the butter to the center in a neat pile, then cover with a second sheet. Use a rolling pin to flatten and form the butter into a 12×18½-inch rectangle, peeling back the top sheet to manipulate the butter into shape as needed. Refrigerate to lightly chill but not fully resolidify, 5–10 minutes.
Laminate the dough: Lightly flour a work surface. Retrieve and unwrap the dough, then roll it out to a 28×12-inch rectangle. With a long side facing you, peel the top sheet away from the butter and flip it over to cover the left two-thirds of the rectangle. Peel away the other sheet. Fold the uncovered third of the dough over the butter, then fold the left-hand third over the center, as if folding a business letter. With your fingers, push down along the seams on the top and the bottom to seal in the butter. Give the dough a quarter turn so that the seams are perpendicular to you. Roll out the dough once more into a 28×12-inch rectangle, and fold again in the same manner (no need to pinch the seams again). Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to relax the gluten in the dough.
Clean the work surface, dust again lightly with flour, and retrieve the dough. Unwrap and again roll out into a rectangle 28×12 inches. Fold into thirds so that the rectangle measures 9×12 inches and 1½–2 inches thick. Wrap in plastic and immediately freeze on a flat surface for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week. (if frozen for more than an hour, transfer the dough to the refrigerator to thaw overnight before using in the morning.)
Three hours before you are ready to serve, form and proof the croissants: Remove the thawed dough from the refrigerator. Line 3 baking sheets with parchment paper and set aside. Lightly dust a work surface with flour and roll into a 12×40-inch rectangle about 1⁄8 inch thick. Use a straight edge and a paring knife or pizza cutter to carefully trim 1 inch from each of the long sides; save for another use. Cut the remaining dough into 14 triangles, 4 inches at the base and 10 inches tall. Working one at a time, stretch the triangles slightly to extend them to 11 inches. Then, starting at the base, roll each tightly all the way to the tip to form an even, straight-armed croissant shape. Press slightly at the tip to adhere and to make a slightly flattened base for the croissant to rest on. Continue rolling the croissants in this manner, then transfer them, spaced evenly apart and flattened side down on the prepared baking sheets (no more than 6 croissants per baking sheet).
Preheat the oven to 400° and set the racks at least 4 inches apart. (If you only have room for 2 racks, the croissants should be baked in 2 rounds.) Set a large, wide baking dish filled with water on the floor of the oven. Place the baking sheets in a warm, preferably humid spot and let rise until the croissants are puffed, very gassy, and about doubled in size (they should slowly spring back when poked with your fingertip and jiggle slightly like gelatin when the tray is shaken), 60–80 minutes.
In a small bowl, beat the yolks and heavy cream. Brush the risen croissants evenly with the mixture and bake, without opening the oven, until the croissants begin to color, 20–22 minutes. Rotate the pans and continue cooking until evenly golden, 6–8 minutes more. Let cool slightly before serving.

Time To Make The Dough

Making the Dough Christina Holmes

Lead viennoisier, Fausto Echeverria, uses a high-fat, European-style butter from Oregon to laminate Tartine’s croissant dough. First, a thin sheet of butter is laid on top of the dough before it is folded into thirds (1). Then, Echeverria rolls the dough out a second time (2), before folding it again in thirds like a letter (3, 4). After a short rest in the fridge, the folding process is repeated once more. The dough is then rested again for several hours to relax the gluten. After the final rest, the dough can be sheeted out and shaped into croissants, danish, and morning buns.

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Two Pea Stir-Fry with Greens

Kat Craddock — Thu, 23 May 2019 01:32:00 +0000

KAT CRADDOCK

Snow peas, sugar snap peas, and pea shoots are quick-cooked with a Thai-inspired oyster-fish-soy sauce dressing, along with plenty of garlic and chiles, in this bold and punchy side dish from SAVEUR editor-in-chief Kat Craddock, which she adapted from a Pok Pok recipe by Andy Ricker. Shoots harvested later in the season are tougher in texture—adjust the cook time accordingly.

Yield: 4

Time: 10 minutes

1 Tbsp. canola oil
1 garlic clove, smashed
1½ cups snow peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
1½ cups snap peas (4 oz.), tips and strings removed
2 bird’s-eye chiles, thinly sliced
3 oz. pea shoots (tendrils, shoots, and leaves), cut into 2-in. lengths (2 cups, loosely packed)
2 tsp. oyster sauce
1½ tsp. fish sauce
1½ tsp. soy sauce
½ tsp. sugar

Instructions

To a wok set over high heat, add the oil and swirl to coat. When smoking, add the garlic and fry until fragrant, about 10 seconds, followed by the snow peas, snap peas, and chiles. Cook, stirring continuously, until the pods are bright green and beginning to brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in the pea shoots and 1 tablespoon of water and cook until wilted, 30–45 seconds. Add the oyster sauce, fish sauce, soy sauce, sugar, and 2 tablespoons water and cook, stirring continuously, until the peas and greens are tender and evenly coated with sauce, 1–2 minutes more.

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Sour-Milk Griddle Cakes

Tim Mazurek — Wed, 28 Nov 2018 17:15:19 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

In this sour-milk griddle cake recipe—adapted from Edna Lewis’ The Taste of Country Cooking —a thick, tangy batter cooks up into soft, fluffy rounds. The rustic pancakes make a delicious breakfast, especially when topped with stewed berries and maple syrup. You can use fresh or frozen blueberries to make the sauce.

Featured in “Back of the Bookshelf: The Taste of Country Cooking” by Tim Mazurek.“

Yield: 2

Time: 25 minutes

Ingredients

FOR THE SAUCE

2 cups blueberries, rinsed
⅓ cup sugar

FOR THE PANCAKES

1½ cups all-purpose flour
1⁄2 cup whole-wheat flour
2 tsp. baking powder
1⁄2 tsp. baking soda
1⁄2 tsp. fine salt
1 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted, plus more for cooking
1 large egg, beaten
2 cups sour milk or buttermilk
Maple syrup, for serving

Instructions

Make the sauce: To a medium pot set over medium heat, bring the blueberries, sugar, and 1⁄3 cup of water to a boil. Turn the heat to low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the blueberries break down and the sugar dissolves, 4–5 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Make the pancakes: In a large bowl, whisk together the all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Whisk in the melted butter and egg until just combined and no streaks of flour remain, then whisk in the sour milk.
In a large non-stick skillet set over medium-low heat, melt 1 tablespoon of butter. Once the foam has subsided, working in batches, use a ⅓-cup measuring cup to scoop the batter onto the pan (without crowding the surface). Cook until tiny bubbles begin to form on the tops of the pancakes and the bottoms are golden brown, 2–4 minutes. Flip and cook the other side until golden brown, 2–4 minutes more. Transfer the pancakes to a platter and tent with foil to keep warm. Add more butter to the skillet and repeat with the remaining batter. Serve immediately with the blueberry sauce and maple syrup.

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Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney

Anna Lise Kvan — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:53:37 +0000

Matt Taylor-Gross

Rhubarb Red Onion Chutney Matt Taylor-Gross

This rhubarb red onion chutney recipe comes from Anna Lise Kvan, of Paris’s Holy Belly Café. She rightly calls it a labor of love since it requires patience and a little elbow grease—it’s important to keep stirring to make sure the rhubarb and onions caramelize without sticking. Make a big batch, so you can keep it in the fridge for up to two weeks. She suggests pairing the chutney with roasted pork cutlets or tenderloin, or spreading it on turkey, chicken, or ham sandwiches. We also like adding it to grilled cheeses and charcuterie boards.

Featured in “How to Cook With Rhubarb (Beyond Turning it Into Pie)”

Yield: Makes 2 cups

Time: 2 hours

2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
2 Tbsp. olive oil
4 medium red onions, thinly sliced (7 cups)
1 tsp. fine salt
1 tsp. sugar
1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
2 whole cloves
6 rhubarb stalks, cut into 1⁄4-in. pieces (4 1⁄2 cups)
1 Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest

Instructions

In a medium pot over medium heat, heat the butter and oil until the butter melts and begins to foam, about 2 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are jammy and deep brown, about 1 hour. Add the salt, sugar, black pepper, cloves, and rhubarb and turn the heat to low. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the rhubarb is soft and broken down, about 50 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the lemon zest.

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Strawberry Jam

SAVEUR Editors — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:21:16 +0000

Photography by Murray Hall; Food Styling by Jessie YuChen

Preserve the flavor of fresh berries with this strawberry jam recipe—perfect for spreading on toast, stuffing into breakfast tarts, and swirling into summery desserts.

Yield: makes 2 pints

5 cups fresh strawberries, washed and hulled
4 cups sugar
1 (1.75 oz.) box pectin

Instructions

In a large bowl, use a potato masher to lightly crush the strawberries. Stir in the sugar and set aside to macerate for 30 minutes.
To a small pot set over high heat, bring the pectin and ¾ cup of water to a boil. Boil, stirring continuously, until it thickly coats the back of a spoon, about 1 minute. Pour into the bowl with the strawberries and stir until the sugar is dissolved.
Into sterilized jars, pour the jam to reach ½ inch below the rims. Seal with lids and set aside to set, 6–10 hours. (The jam will keep, refrigerated, for up to 3 weeks after opening.)

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Chimichurri

Francis Mallmann — Mon, 18 Mar 2019 22:40:13 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF; PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN

A saltwater brine prevents fresh herbs from discoloring in this zesty chimichurri, adapted from a recipe in Argentine chef Francis Mallmann’s Seven Fires. The bright condiment pairs beautifully with steak, vegetables, and crunchy bread served straight off the grill.

This recipe first ran alongside a rib eye recipe with Shane Mitchell’s 2013 article, “The Art of the Parilla.”

Yield: 6

Time: 35 minutes

1 Tbsp. kosher salt
1 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
¾ cup finely chopped fresh oregano
8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ tsp. crushed red chile flakes
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ cup red wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

In a small pot, bring the salt and 1 cup water to a boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature.
To a small bowl, add the parsley, oregano, garlic, chile flakes, olive oil, vinegar, and black pepper. Stir in the saltwater brine, then let the chimichurri sit at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 hours. Use the chimichurri immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 3 weeks.

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Vichyssoise

Louis Diat — Thu, 15 Dec 2005 10:00:00 +0000

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BELLE MORIZIO; FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINE ALBANO; PROP STYLING BY CARLA GONZALEZ-HART

Credited with the invention of this famous chilled potato leek soup, Chef Louis Diat of New York City’s original Ritz-Carlton Hotel once prepared eight portions of the dish to be delivered to the Manhattan townhouse of Sara Delano Roosevelt, Franklin D.’s mother—and enclosed this vichyssoise recipe. The best potatoes to use for something like vichyssoise are low-starch varieties, such as Yukon Golds, which will retain their creamy flavor and velvety texture even after a long cooking and double-straining process.

Yield: 8

Time: 3 hours 40 minutes

4 Tbsp. (2 oz.) unsalted butter
4 leeks, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
5 medium potatoes (about 2¼ lbs.), peeled and thinly sliced
Kosher salt
2 cups whole milk
2 cups light cream
1 cup heavy cream
2 Tbsp. finely chopped chives

Instructions

In a large pot over medium-low heat, melt the butter. Add the leeks and onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft but not browned, about 20 minutes. Add the potatoes, 4 cups water, and salt to taste, and turn up the heat to high to bring it to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium-low, and continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are soft, 50–60 minutes.
Set a fine sieve over a medium bowl and strain the soup, pressing and scraping the solids with a spoon. Wipe the pot clean and return the strained soup to it. Whisk in the milk and light cream, bring the soup to a boil over high heat, then remove from heat and let cool.
Set the sieve over a medium bowl and strain the soup again, pressing and scraping with the spoon. Discard any solids that remain in the sieve. Stir the heavy cream into soup, then cover and refrigerate until chilled, for at least 2 and up to 24 hours. Season soup with salt to taste just before serving.
To serve, divide the vichyssoise among soup bowls and garnish with chives.

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